IN THIS ISSUE:
1. So... THAT'S How You Do PERFECT Polka-Dots!
2. An AWESOME Project Done By Paul Marlin
3. Become A PYOG Affiliate
4. SPECIAL OFFERS FROM PYOG

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1. So... THAT's How You Do Perfect Polka-Dots!

Over the years, I've had several people ask me how to do polka-dot designs such as Randy Rhoads' V, so here's a simple step-by-step method for pulling it off with PERFECT results.

1. Start by laying a piece of masking tape on the angle that you want the polka-dots to go. (See FIG 1)

You don't have to angle your dots, though - they can be straight, if that's what you're shootin' for. But, using a strip of masking tape will help you to align all of your stickers perfectly.

2. Place your first circle into position as I've done in FIG 2. (Go to your local office supply store to find circle stickers in different sizes) If you're trying to create an EXACT replica of someone's guitar, have a photo of that guitar right next to you as you place your stickers into place.

3. Depending how much space you want between your circles, use masking tape to position them accurately. In FIG 3, I'm using 2" tape. After your first circle is down, place some masking tape down to get your spacing, then place a circle on the other side of your strip.

Masking tape comes in plenty of different widths, so you shouldn't have any excuses as to why your stickers aren't placed perfectly.

If you don't want to use masking tape, you can also use a piece of paper cut to a certain size. Hold it in place with one hand while you drop the stickers into perfect position with the other. (Personally, I prefer using masking tape instead.)

4. Once the next circle is positioned, drop another piece of masking tape down to position the next circle in place (see FIG 4). Continue using this technique until your row is finished.

5. When it's time to start a new row, once again, use masking tape to help you position your circles where they need to go. In FIG 5, I've used 2" masking tape again, but you may find that that spacing is too wide for you. In that case, use a different width - one that you think works better for you.

Just keep repeating this until you've laid out all of your circles.

6. When all of your circles are in place, remove the masking tape you used as guides.

VOILA! - PERFECT POLKA-DOTS!

After your color coat has adequately dried, and you're removing your circles, you may find that there's some tape residue left on the body. To get rid of that, use Mineral Spirits to clean it off.

Refer to my books for how long you should leave the circle masking on the body before trying to remove. This length of time is VERY important.

 

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2. An AWESOME Project Done By Paul Marlin

I pretty much tell everyone that emails me to keep me posted on their progress. Why do I do that? - Cuz I really wanna see what you're all DOING! - And, cuz I give a sh*t!!

When Paul Marlin started sending me photos of some of the work he's done over the last year, I was very impressed.

However, when he sent me photos of his latest project, I felt it was so good, and the story behind it was so interesting, I wanted to share it with all of you.

Below is the email that Paul sent to me along with photos of his latest project. I hope it inspires you.

 

I finished it last weekend and have been playing it all week. I don't remember if I told you the story behind this one but here it goes:

My apartment, years ago, burned and the upstairs apartment collapsed. All of my guitars were on stands and several had the headstocks broken off including this one.

The binding was burned and melted pretty bad, so I repaired the neck and then decided that since it was already messed up, I would route out the body for a tremolo.

I then painted it with spray paint but really didn't know what I was doing so it came out pretty bad (It was a long time ago so I didn't know about your books then). I didn't like the way it looked or played so it just sat on a stand for years and years.

Then, last year I bought your book and painted an SG body that I picked up on Ebay. It came out so good that I decided to restore the Iceman. I striped it down to bare wood. I ripped off the fretboard and put a new one on that I inlaid with stars and fretted it myself.

I replaced all the binding and filled in the big hole that I routed out for the trem with a a block of wood. Then I started painting it using the info from your book.

I spent a couple weeks drawing up the design, then followed your book. It came out really nice, the finish looks like glass. I can't stop looking at it and every time I walk by it, I start playing it.